The Problem with old Tractors...

Last week Friday was a day I questioned my old iron addiction.  Especially, since I had just bought a "newer" machine to help in that respect.  So here's what happened...

I got a powerwasher from a neighbor.  Couldn't beat the price, 60 bucks, so I had to have it.  They are handy to have...its not heavy duty, but for cleaning gutters and washing my equipment, it'll work fine.  6 horse, 2500 psi or something.  Fired it up to powerwash one of my mowing decks...hasn't run in a while, and it was drain of gasoline...No problem.  Filled it up and it IMMEDIATELY started leaking gas everywhere.  Little bit of searching, and I find that the fuel line is cracked in a couple places.  I drained the tank back out, replaced the line, and was back in business.  It works well!  I finished cleaning my mower deck, and decided it was time to mow.

I fired up the newest addition (my Sovereign 18) and it cranks about a half a turn, and nothing.  Well, not nothing because I saw SMOKE come out from under the dash!  Sunofagun!  This isn't good.  I made sure it wasn't on fire (it wasn't) and figured it was just a minor electrical gremlin.  I had been into the dash before, and noted that there were some things that needed fixing.  I was going to wait until winter though.

Anyway, I have another tractor (the 7016H) that I can mount the deck on (the other was drying after powerwashing) so I figured I'd just use that.  I changed the deck over, and fired it up.  Forgot the belt...dang it.  Killed the tractor, grabbed the belt, and mounted that.  Fired it back up and noticed the blades are spinning.  This is a problem, because I haven't actually engaged the PTO yet!  So I wiggle the handle a bit, not getting the right feeling.  I stop the engine again, and start to look at the PTO.  I pull on the handle a bit harder, and POP!  The PTO engagement mechanism broke.

So, now I have THREE tractors with mower decks...and I had to push mow my dang yard!  I guess its good exercise.

Old Iron is GREAT.  Its heavy duty and repairable.  However...the fact that its repairable means that at some point, its gonna break, and need a repair.  Murphy's Law dictates that it all breaks at once!

New Post?

Wow, its been about a month and a half since I've put an update out!  That's too long to keep any readers...I'll have to do better.  I actually haven't really had any updates until recently though.  My tractor time has been limited, due to a honey doo list that became due.  Missus wanted new carpet...which meant a wider door way, tile bathroom floor, lots of drywall repairs, running new cable lines...and the list goes on.  Not quite sure how new carpet necessitated all that in her mind, but "happy wife, happy life, Right?

I got the 12 HP back together, finally, about a week ago.  Turned out really nice...Couple of things to finish up, like a sticker over the flywheel bolt, and I'm sure I'll need to tinker with the governor.  The service manual is VERY cryptic about how to do a static governor set-up for a vertical shaft engine. Notice the Nice, shiny OEM muffler...This is important in a minute.

Today, I started to figure out where I'll need to make adjustments to make this engine fit my little tractor.  I really want it to look factory, so I'll be making new parts where necessary, instead of cutting clearance.  Anyway, I knew the tank straps would need adjustment.  I didn't realize the Tank was too close to the shroud...It fit during mock up, but I had already removed the shroud, so its possible I didn't mock it up correctly.

I also found some unforeseen interference around my muffler. The PTO rod hits the bottom, and won't engage with the engine bolted down,  That isn't a huge deal, as I could bend a new one.  

The bigger issue is that the grill also hits the muffler.  OEM, the Broadmoor engine is equipped with a "hot dog" muffler.  Its similar to what is pictured below.

The round muffler in the OEM application provides clearance to the grill because of its small diameter.  However, its also LOUD...so I wanted the Lo-Tone like this engine was originally equipped.  

Not sure what direction to go...I guess I'll do some searching on Decibel levels from the different mufflers, and what might be available for a 1" NPT exhaust port.  Option two is extend the muffler away from the engine a bit.  That might be difficult to do, because of the mounting design of this particular muffler.  Option three is a stack...which might be cool on this tractor.  I would have a good way to brace it and stacks (esp with rain flappers) are kinda old school cool.  My goal was a quiet lawn mower though, and stacks can be loud.  Finally, my Uncle runs a fab shop...I might get the cardboard out, and make a new, wider grill template.  He'd bend me a new bracket and grill, no problem.  I'm sure there is someone out there who wants a perfect OEM grill! :)

Anyone wanna weigh in on the decision, Leave a comment!

Weedcutter!

Short post about my tractors...Still working through issues on the Broadmoor.  I have all my parts now though, so I should be able to assemble tomorrow.  My exhaust valve kinda gave me fits...cuz I slipped with the grinder when I was setting my clearance.  Blew the clearance by about, oh, 15 thousandths of an inch!  Max spec is only 11 thousandths, so I really screwed the pooch.  I was able to save it though, thanks to the toolroom at work.  I have a comparator, surface grinder, rotary vice, etc.  I was able to regrind the valve on the seating surface, and bring it back into spec.

 Anyway, this is NOT the reason I'm writing this post.  I'm pretty excited about my newest acquisition.  I got the most ridiculously dangerous, awesome attachment ever!  Its called a weedcutter.  Those of you who are familiar with Simplicity probably know what this monster is.  For those who DON'T know, let me try to describe it.

Its a front mounted attachment.  It has four blades, and they are designed to blaze trails through light forest undergrowth or through pastures.  Long grass, small sticks, that sort of thing.  Think DR trimmer, but on steroids.  The blades are solid, not flails...so they don't "give" when they strike something solid, like a rock or someone's leg.  I LOVE IT!  I don't have any real use for it, but I'll figure something out.  I can cut my folks walking paths through the woods at their house.  I can cut some stuff on the hunting property, if I want...but don't need to do any of that.  I have access to a 40 HP Kubota with a 3 point, rear mounted brushhog.  My sovereign IS more maneuverable than the Kubota though.

The attachment does need some work.  Its missing an arbor and blade.  Those parts are no longer available, so I'll have to make something.  The bearings are stiff, and probably junk.  Those are still available.  The belts are in surprisingly good condition, considering this attachment is almost 50 years old.  Its from 1967.  It needs a paintjob too.  It will be done in due time.  It was one of those items that popped up for sale and I dropped what I was doing to try and get it.  Obviously, it worked out.  I'm happy to have a relatively rare piece.  This one was number 3 off the production line too...Yes, the serial number tag is still intact. Eventually, I want a tractor from the same era to put it on.  Something like this...

The best, most awesome part of this attachment?  The Decal, that says "DANGER ROTATING KNIVES" Anyway, here are a couple pictures...

Pretty Colors

Today was all about paint.  Not a lot of words, but pretty picture intensive.  I spent A LOT of time cleaning...those engine blocks have many places for gunk to hide.  Its pretty tough to get clean too, as it gets baked on by the heat of the engine while running.  Hot water is your friend at this point.  Lacquer Thinner is also great...plus numerous brushes, rags, and abrasive pads.  Something that REALLY helped was a spray bottle full of hot water.  I was able to blast the dirt out of the deeper holes that I could not reach with a brush.  I think next time, I'll make a soap solution with hot water for the spray bottle, and rinse from the bucket.  

Anyway, everything now has a nice coat of paint on it.  I'm going to bring the head to work with me next week, and beadblast it.  I heard that keeping the head unpainted will help it run about 20 degrees cooler!  Anyway, here we go...

Masked off, and ready for paint.

Masked and Ready for paint 2

Painted Block!

Engine shrouds and various covers...

 The "tools" of the day.  Zinc Chromate Primer, purchased at Napa Paint Retailer, and Duplicolor engine paint.  The Orange-Red is very close to Simplicity Orange. It applied pretty well, without too much blotchiness.  I was really impressed with the black color.  It was awesome.  The block turned out really well.  Not sure how it looks in pictures, but its a nice even tone and gloss in person.

More "Depth"

I sometimes wonder about my myself, and whether I have a real problem or not.  I just can't seem to leave we enough alone.  What started as replacing a motor quick (like in a weekend) has grown into stripping the motor down, and painting it...

Once I got the covers off, I noticed that the engine had a LOT of Oily buildup on it, and had at LEAST one critter condo under the shroud.  Once I started cleaning the black, nasty mess off, I realized that the clearcoat on the engine was discolored, and starting to flake off.  I don't want that in my relatively nice Broadmoor.  This pic illustrates my point.  That yellow/brown discoloration is clearcoat with what I assume is oil underneath.  Looks nasty...

My motives were not entirely vain however, I also wanted to get underneath the flywheel, and make sure there wasn't anything living there, past or present!  Finally, I wanted to totally remove the recoil starter, so I don't have to worry about vertical clearance at all.

I studied the web quite a bit, trying to figure out how to remove the post for the recoil...you can see it sticking up in this picture.  Turns out, it is an extension piece that is threaded into the crankshaft.  Those clever engineers at Briggs and Stratton figured out how to use the same crank for both recoil and electric start engines.  While I was searching, I also found a fan kit that will fill in the gaps left

Post to Hood Clearance

from removing the recoil.   Finally, since the kit didn't come with a flywheel bolt, I picked up a new one of those.  

Here is where it gets a little dicey...I KNEW the extension was threaded into the crank, but it didn't have any type of drive feature on it...in other words, there was nothing for me to grip and put any amount of torque on.  I checked with my local Fastenal store, and they happened to have 5/8-18 jam nuts, in stock!  I figured I'd use two of them tightened against each other, and spin the extension out.  I rushed home from work, excited to continue my project.

I got the first nut installed, and to my dismay, there was not enough thread cut onto the shaft for the second nut.  I dug through my toolbox for some Loctite and was only able to find the blue stuff.  I had my doubts, but applied it anyway.  I tightened the nut down against a flange then went to the house to have some dinner.  Afterward, I tried again to remove the extension.  No dice, the nut broke free...blue Loctite wasn't strong enough.  At this point, I was getting impatient, so I tried vice grips on the smooth end of the shaft.  That didn't work either...just slipped, and gouged the shaft.  Last effort for the night, I got my electric heat gun out, and got the extension hot enough to boil the penetrating oil out.  I tapped it a couple times with my screwdriver and it sounded like two pieces of metal...Could it be?  I grabbed my vice grips again, crossed my fingers, and gave them a turn.  FREEDOM!  It spun right out with very little effort.  Red Loctite was applied at the factory.  I have a love/hate relationship with that stuff...Heat always does the trick but I never seem to know when I need to apply heat.

The extension, In Place on the crank

Free from its home

I worked on getting the rest of the block cleaned up after that.  Hot water with dish soap, a couple rags, purple scubbie pad, and a stainless bristle brush did a pretty good job.  I also used a deburring brush in my drill to get into the nooks and crannies.  Cleaning round one is done.  I'll get back after it tomorrow with a fresh scrubbie pad and some lacquer thinner...that should remove the last of the grease and oil.  I'll probably have to wash with soap and water one more time, just to float the last of the clearcoat that I loosen by scrubbing away.  Prep is the key to a successful paint job, that goes double for aluminum.

Mockups...

Short post to end the day.  Wanted to see how the engine would fit, and if it was even worth the struggle.

Its nice when the research you do before starting a project and the reality of that project when you start mesh.  This engine lines up with the mounting holes perfectly!  What I was most worried about was the grill clearance and keeping the hood unmolested.  The barrel top hood, with the deep v front is the thing I love most about this machine.  If this engine wouldn't have fit without modifiying that hood, I would have done something different.

I mentioned that it will be tight...and it is.  The gas tank straps will need some re-engineering to clear the shroud.  Also, the grill is in the standard location.  I will have to change the strap that goes across the front.  The vertical height is no longer correct, and I believe it will need to be "flattened" out a bit.  With the hood on, it looks as though the recoil assembly will be close...so I will have to buy a new fan and screen to eliminate that.  I will also need to figure out a place for a battery and electrical system.  Without a recoil, I will need to utilize the electric start on this engine.  All and all, pretty minor stuff.   I'm getting really excited about this project now!